My plan is for No.1 to be yard switcher till I get/ kitbash an 0-6-0 that Sierra had used. No.8 and No.10 will run the freights. No.15 will run the Mixed.
My four engines are converted to radio
control. This works great. No interference or glitching ever. I have absolute incremental throttle control.
I fly electric R/C aircraft so I am
using my old Hitec Optic 6 transmitter with a Spectrum 2.4 GHz module
and Hobby King Orange receivers.
All have an on/off switch below tender
deck on Engineers side.
Speed controllers are one direction, so
I made servos push/pull a DPDT switch for reversing. The right
control stick works like a Johnson Bar, push forward/up to change to
forward and pull back/down for reverse.
Left stick is throttle. I have it
reverse of real engines due to aircraft is push/up on, pull/down is
off. I don't want to confuse myself between the two. Aircraft take
priority.
Batteries are my older LiPos that won't
provide the amp draw for aircraft, but will run an engine.
I have been using this type for 15
years and know to be cautious with them as when abused they can self
ignite. I have not had this happen to me, but have seen it happen to
others when damaged or charged incorrectly. Always read the safety
instructions on all batteries and chargers.
Batteries are in engines or their
tenders and are easy to replace if they get low during operating.
They are ALWAYS removed for safe charging in an fire proof container.
The engines are lettered with vinyl
from a local sign shop that made them as small as his machine would
cut, 1/4 inch. If you tell them you will do the picking,(removing
excess around the letters), and transfer to low tack tape yourself,
they get friendly again. Thats the hard the work. They usually have
tons of scrap to cut on. Cut a few extras because you will mess some
up till you get the hang of it.
Most of the info to keep things running
I learned from George's Technical Tips Page
A wealth of tips and tricks for G scale engines.
I am still looking for a bargain
Bachmann Heisler to be No.9
Update 5-18-20. Aquired a used Bachmann Heisler, 2trk Shay and a 3trk Shay.
I am reshopping them, see below.
Update 5-18-20. Aquired a used Bachmann Heisler, 2trk Shay and a 3trk Shay.
I am reshopping them, see below.
Engine No.1
Pretty much stock Bachmann Porter sidetank 0-4-0, Coal Creek
Lumber.
Started out blue before repaint.
Replaced bell rope and added whistle
rod.
Added sand dome lid handles.
Reworked cab roof vent so it will open
and close.
Removed track pickups.
Cut backhead off so a 2 cell 610mah or
a 3 cell 370mah battery can slip in/out. The backhead is held in
place by a magnet.
R/C receiver in left tank and speed
control in other. Reversing servo/switch on fireman's side wall.
No sound yet.
Runs well and surprisingly will pull
the two hoppers out of the steep grade of the gravel spur.
Don't know run time, but it used half
the battery to switch the yard and run a work train to Omega Siding, do some
switching and run back to JT.
Engine No.8
Bachmann Class B Climax, older version,
undecorated.
Yes, Sierra didn't have a No.8 or a Climax.
But a Climax was ordered and used on the Sugar Pine Ry. and other
engines may have been ordered as demos, and may have used the unused
numbers while on site. Works for me.
Replaced bell rope and added whistle
rod.
Added a rebuilt 4-6-0 generator and
moved the air pump exhaust.
Removed coal and made oil tank to hold
3 cell 1300mah battery.
Added sand bunker in cab for the
Fireman's daughter to sit on. She likes the Engineer. Held in place
with a magnet.
Scratch built a "cow-catcher"
to front pilot beam. All Sierra road engines have them.
Installed rear footboard that was
missing, from a 4-6-0 tender.
Moved reverse lamp from roof to back of
water tank.
Replace head/reverse lamp LEDs with SMD
LEDs. Just brighter, better color.
Hardwired truck to chassis wires with
silicon wires. Heard connection can be bad.
Removed roller ball pickups.
Disconnected all other lights.
Added older version 4-6-0 chuff board
and smaller speaker. Now has MY Loco Sound.
Un-quartered cross connecting shaft so
chuff switches in pistons now go chuff equally,(although half the
real engine), not chuff chuff nothing nothing chuff...
Made and added ladder to Fireman's side
of water tank.
Made hinged stack cover.
Made front flag holders and white
flags.
Added rod for roof vent.
Filed bolsters on front frame to let
front truck tilt side to side better for uneven track. Left rear
alone.
Runs great. Have run for 45 min and
used half of battery. Works well on uneven track.
Engine No.9
Bachmann 2 trruck Heisler.
Aquired 5-18-20 from Dave Connery's now retired South West Side Lumber Co.
Thank you Dave.
As of 5-25-20.
Already has PCM R/C with Sierra Sound installed and working.
Fixed front truck to frame connection.
Pulled side air tanks, rear ladder, rear sandbox, roof light, front foot board.
Added Bachmann couplers.
Removed roof reverse lamp.
Made oil tank and hatch, moved water hatch.
Added a "cow-catcher" to front pilot beam. All Sierra road engines have them.
Repainted cab and tender.
Relettered.
Replaced crew.
Made a new stack and cover.
Runs and sounds great.
Engine No.9
Bachmann 2 trruck Heisler.
Aquired 5-18-20 from Dave Connery's now retired South West Side Lumber Co.
Thank you Dave.
As of 5-25-20.
Already has PCM R/C with Sierra Sound installed and working.
Fixed front truck to frame connection.
Pulled side air tanks, rear ladder, rear sandbox, roof light, front foot board.
Added Bachmann couplers.
Removed roof reverse lamp.
Made oil tank and hatch, moved water hatch.
Added a "cow-catcher" to front pilot beam. All Sierra road engines have them.
Repainted cab and tender.
Relettered.
Replaced crew.
Made a new stack and cover.
Runs and sounds great.
Engine No.10
Bachnann Class B Shay, older version,
Ely-Thomas lumber Co.
Replaced bell rope and added whistle
rod.
Removed coal and made oil tank.
Removed diamond stack and used a 4-6-0
stack with an extension. Will make a hinged stack cover.
Added "cow-catcher" to front
pilot beam. Also from a 4-6-0. All Sierra road engines have them.
Installed rear footboard that was
missing, from a 4-6-0 tender.
Painted cab sides and tank flat black
to cover lettering.
Removed reverse lamp from back of
water tank. No. 10 did not have one.
Replace head lamp LED with SMD LED.
Just brighter, better color.
Added older version 4-6-0 chuff board
and smaller speaker. Fixed short circuit behind cylinders.
If your wheels wobble you need to
REPLACED ALL CRUMBLING WASHERS BETWEEN WHEELS AND BEARINGS with 3/8
steel washers, drilled out to fit on axle and No.10 nylon washers for
insulating wheel from axle. MY ENGINE DID. Bachman doesn't have the
kit anymore.
SO FAR I REPLACED ONE AXLE DRIVE GEAR
THAT CRACKED. Got a replacement from Northwest Short Line . The gear is a Spur Gear, 32DP x 22 Teeth x 18.9mm OD x 0.173" Face x 6mm Bore, Delrin Compatible with: Fn3 Bachmann 36T Shay axle gear. Part Number: 2225-6. As soon as I replaced it another cracked. Ended up replacing all four.
Removed roller ball pickups.
Disconnected all other lights.
Made front flag holders and white
flags.
Added rod for roof vent.
Replace long air tank with scratch
built shorter one.
Removed rear ladder.
Runs great also. Likes uneven track.
Engine No.15
Bachmann 4-6-0 Chattanooga Rail Road
Set.
Replaced bell rope and added whistle
rod.
Removed coal and made oil tank.
Made a hinged stack cover.
Moved reverse lamp from center of
tender to back left edge.
Replace head/reverse lamp LEDs with SMD
LEDs. Just brighter, better color.
Made new guide for pony truck,(front 4
wheels), per George's Technical Tips Page.
Replaced chassis and running gear with
Bachmann 4-6-0 Anniversary chassis.
Added extra chuff bars to axle contacts
for four chuffs per revolution.
Removed track pickups.
Disconnected all other lights.
Made roof vent operable and added rod.
Removed brass painted boiler bands.
Painted cab and tender black.
Runs ok. Doesn't like uneven track.
